Makeup tips for beginners: Part Three

By Christine (704)

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Adding the special effects

This section mainly covers the most attractive parts of a woman's face: the eyes and lips.

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The Eyes

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Eyebrows

After applying foundation and powder, the next step is to work on the eyes. Start at the top with the eyebrows and work down.

The first step is getting the shape of the eyebrows. You may not be in a position in your male life where plucking one's eyebrows is possible. However, you may get away trimming the longer hairs and some cautious shaping. Also, using a thicker concealer or even special eyebrow wax (from theatrical makeup suppliers) may be the answer.

Here is an anatomical diagram to work out the ideal shape of the eyebrow. In particular, take note of the D-D line (which passes the outer edge of the iris), indicating the highest point of the arch of a woman's eyebrow.

Use an eyebrow pencil, but use it lightly, feathering gently over the eyebrow hairs. Do not draw a hard line, as this is not the fashion these days to have the eyebrows strongly defined. After using the pencil, gently smudge the eyebrows with your finger to smooth them so that any pencil lines are not visible.

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Eyeshadow

This is where you really get a chance to be creative.

You have two basic options. The first is to use natural skin colours to create the illusion that you are not wearing eyeshadow. This would work best for daytime makeup.

The second option is a more dramatic style for evenings. Here one might use other colours. I sometimes use a combination of plum, grey and dark pink, with white highlights.

Use a proper makeup brush, rather than the little appicators supplied with the eyeshadow. A good brush gives a more even application of colour and gives you greater control.

Generally speaking 2 to 4 colours will do the job. The following images explain some of the steps, using three colours, all more or less natural shades:

Here is a drawing of the eyes without eyeshadow.
We start with the darkest shadow and gently brush this into the eyelid crease that defines the browbone. Include the outer half of the eyelid itself and extend it slightly past the outer edge of the eye.
The darkest colour has also been applied to the outer part of the lower lid. Next we use a little lighter shade, which is applied on the upper edge of the first colour, done in a way so the the colours can be blended. Next the highlights are added in two places. The most obvious place is the browbone. Again it is applied at the upper edge of the last colour, so they can be blended. The second area that the highlight is added, is the inner half of the eyelid to the inner corner of the eye. The final step is to blend the colours so that there is no aburpt transition from one colour to the next. Use a larger makeup brush and gently move it back and forward across the eye, to soften the look.

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Eyeliner

Eyeliners are usually pencil or liquid. Liquid eyeliner, which can give a more dramatic effect, is tricky to use and mistakes can easily be made. I recommend using a pencil. It is easier to use and gives a softer effect.

Remember to keep your pencils nice and sharp for easier use and also because sharpening removes any bacteria.

Start with the upper lid, beginning a the mid point of the eyelid and work towards the outside. Use multiple small strokes, rather than trying to draw a line. As you approach the outer edge of the eyelid, make the line a little thicker and extend it slightly past the corner of the eye.

For the lower lid, gently draw a line where the hairs come out, again starting in the middle, moving to the outer edge, where it should met up with the upper lid eyeliner.

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Mascara

I have found that there is a real difference between a good quality mascara and a cheap one. The quality products give a much richer, less clumpy look.

Start with the upper lashes and place the applicator on the the top pf the lashes and blink. This applies mascara to the upper surface of the lashes. Next use the brush from beneath the lashes is an upward arching movement. Start with the inner lashes and work your way outwards.

The lower lashes require more care as they are smaller and many women do not use mascara on them at all. Gently run the brush back and forwards across the lashes.

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The Lips

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Lip Liner

Use a lip liner pencil that is a shade or two darker than the lipstick. Carefully draw a line outlining the lips. You may increase the size of the lips by going slightly outside the line, but do not overdo it or you could end up looking like a clown. Like with eyeliner pencil, remember to keep your lip liner pencil sharpened.

A useful trick with lipliner, is to gently shade in the lips with the same pencil, as it adheres to the lips far longer that most lipsticks, which quickly lose their colour with eating, drinking or kissing.

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Lipstick and lipgloss

Lipstick should be applied quite thinly. Spreading it on thickly will not make it last longer, but it will smear and create a clown effect. You may even use a brush to applied lipstick. The final touch is a little clear lip gloss to the middle of the lower lip tp get that wet sexy look.

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Blusher

Gone are the days of the heavy rouge that our aunties wore. Blusher should be subtle, especially for daytime use, but can be a little brighter for evenings.

With your face relaxed (not smiling) apply first to the "apple" of the cheek, then in a line at the bottom edge of the cheekbone, aiming toward the top of the ear. Blend the edges of the colour.

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Next - Finishing off, conclusions and links

This website was designed by and is maintained by Christine Parker (Member 704)