Contouring the face

This section mainly covers how to give the face a more female shape by highlight the cheekbones and minimising the jaw line and the width of the nose. You can even make your Adam's apple much less noticeable.


Using a bronzer and high-lighter

It is optional whether you start with the blusher or bronzer. This example starts with the bronzer.

A bronzer somewhat darker than the foundation is applied in the following areas:

  1. In a line from the corner of the mouth aiming towards the top of the ear, under the cheek bone, starting at the bottom of the cheekbone and extending upwards as shown.
  2. Then extend the bronzer onto the temple to narrow the forehead.
  3. Apply the bronzer along and under the lower jawline to soften it.
  4. Apply it just above the eyebrows to diminish the supra-orbital ridges that are more prominent in men. (Not shown in this image).
  5. Use a smaller brush on either side of the nose, to make it look narrower and smaller.
  6. As part of my facial contouring technique (i.e. using darker and lighter shades), I have found a neat, easy little trick to make my Adam's apple less visible. I put a dark shade on the upper side and a light shade on the underside. It makes it almost disappear or at least, much less obvious.

Finally, use a lighter coloured power or glimmer to highlight the top of the cheek bones and down the middle of the nose.

Contour powders should always be completely matte, with no shimmer at all.

IMPORTANT!
Finish by using a larger brush to blend the edges between the darker and lighter areas.

For some good photos about contouring the face, check these: Photo:     Diagram:     And another slightly different example:


Blusher

Gone are the days of the heavy rouge that our great-aunts wore. Blusher should be subtle, especially for daytime use, but can be a little brighter for evenings.

PLEASE NOTE:The blusher shown here is somewhat exaggerated for demonstration purposes only. Use it more subtly when you apply it.

With your face relaxed (not smiling) apply first to the "apple" of the cheek, starting at a spot shown in the diagram, where a vertical line from the outer corner of the eye meets a horizontal line from the bottom of the nose.

Then apply blusher lightly in a line aiming toward the top of the ear. Blend the edges of the colour with a larger soft brush.



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